What to see in Les, village in the Aran Valley

Les is the last village in the Aran Valley before the French border. Situated at 631 metres above sea level, on the banks of the river Garonne, it has fewer than a thousand inhabitants. 19 km from Vielha and 28 km from Baqueira Beret. Roman thermal baths, a 12th-century castle, Spain's only ecological caviar farm and two churches with centuries of history. A small village with an unusual concentration of attractions for the Pyrenees.

These are the places to see in Les and the activities you should not miss.

Baronía de Les Thermal Baths

The Baronía de Les thermal baths are the main draw of the village. The thermal waters of Les have been known since Roman times: the Romans already used these springs as baths. The sulphurous waters rise from over 300 metres underground at a temperature of 37 °C.

The original spa operated for centuries until it closed in the mid-20th century. The current Termas Baronía de Les occupies modern facilities with thermal pools, a water circuit, sauna, hammam and therapeutic treatments. The water's properties help relieve rheumatic, joint, dermatological and circulatory conditions.

It is one of two thermal complexes in the Aran Valley (the other being Banhs d'Arties, 30 km away). Skiing at Baqueira in the morning and soaking in the thermal baths at Les in the afternoon is one of the most popular winter plans in the valley.

Castle of Les

The Castle of Les dates from the 12th century and sits on a rocky outcrop almost 100 metres above the old quarter of Saviela. In 1265, King Jaume I of Aragon stayed here during his visit to the Aran Valley.

Today it lies in ruins, but the Keep Tower still stands. The climb is worth it for the views: from the top you can see the entire Garonne valley, the village of Les, the forests on the French side and the mountains that mark the border. It is one of the best viewpoints in the Lower Aran.

At the foot of the path leading up to the castle stands the church of Sant Blai, a Romanesque chapel where the remains of the last baron of Les rest. Its architectural structure remains a matter of debate: historians are unsure whether the chapel was part of a larger construction or an independent rebuild.

Caviar Nacarii

Les is home to the Caviar Nacarii farm, Spain's only ecological caviar production centre. Located beside the river Garonne in the southern part of the village, it takes advantage of the purity and temperature of the mountain water to breed sturgeon.

The caviar produced here competes with the finest in the world. The farm offers guided tours explaining the sturgeon breeding process and caviar production, ending with a tasting accompanied by a glass of cava. A distinctive attraction that few visitors expect to find in a Pyrenean mountain village.

Churches of Les

Church of San Juan Bautista

Built between 1790 and 1819, in Aranese Romanesque style and dedicated to St John the Baptist. Its 32-metre bell tower is visible from several points around the village. It was restored in the early 21st century to preserve its structure, including renovations to the old baptistery. It forms part of the Architectural Heritage of Catalonia.

Church of Sant Blai

A Romanesque chapel at the foot of the path climbing to the castle. Inside rest the remains of the last baron who ruled in Les. A small, austere construction that contrasts with the parish church, but of notable historical value.

The Quema del Haro

The Crèma deth Haro is the most emblematic celebration in Les. It takes place on the night of San Juan (23 June) in the village square, beside the church. A fir trunk, planted the previous year, is burned in a ritual bonfire to purify souls and ward off evil spirits.

The year's newlyweds make a flower offering as a fertility rite. Aranese dances surround the bonfire as the trunk burns. The festival forms part of the Fire Festivals of the Summer Solstice in the Pyrenees, declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

The river Garonne through Les

The river Garonne crosses Les from south to north on its way to France. It rises in the Aran Valley (at the Pla de Beret and the Ruda Valley) and reaches the Atlantic at Bordeaux after 647 km through Spain and France. By the time it passes through Les, the Garonne already carries a considerable flow and divides the village into two banks connected by bridges.

The riverside walk is one of the most pleasant strolls in the village. The sound of the water, the stone bridges and the houses with wooden balconies overlooking the channel form the most recognisable image of Les.

Walks and routes from Les

Saviela quarter

The old part of Les, elevated above the rest of the village. Steep streets, stone-and-slate houses and access to the path climbing to the castle. The views from Saviela across the valley and the river Garonne make the walk worthwhile.

Route to the Portillón pass

From Les you can walk (or drive) to the Portillón pass, the border crossing with France that connects to the French town of Bagnères-de-Luchon. The route offers panoramic views of the valley and is a short excursion accessible for all levels.

Neighbouring villages

Les is 5 km from Bossòst (another village with a Romanesque church, a Sunday market and street life) and 7 km from Bausen (a tiny village next to the Enchanted Forest of Carlac). Both can be visited in a morning combining driving and walking.

How to get to Les

Les sits on the N-230, 19 km from Vielha, 28 km from Baqueira Beret and 5 km from the French border. Driving distances: Toulouse 110 km (1 h 30 min), Barcelona 311 km (3 h 45 min), Zaragoza 268 km (3 h), Madrid 590 km (6 h).

From France, the most direct access is via the Portillón pass from Bagnères-de-Luchon. From Spain, via the N-230 and the Vielha tunnel. Nearest airports: Toulouse-Blagnac (1 h 30 min) and Lleida-Alguaire (2 h 30 min).

Where to stay near Les

Les does not have a large accommodation offer of its own. For a stay with full services, our accommodation in Vielha is 19 km away (20 minutes by car) and offers the widest variety of apartments in the valley. Those who prefer a smaller, closer village can browse our apartments in Gessa, 15 km from Les, or explore all our accommodation in the Aran Valley to find the base that best fits your trip.